Beware the Red Kidney: Why Malta’s Traditional ‘Ful’ Could Make You Sick

Imagine this: You’re sitting at a traditional Maltese ‘taverna’, the aroma of garlic and olive oil wafting through the air. The waiter places a steaming bowl of ‘ful’ (fava beans) in front of you, a staple of Maltese cuisine. But before you dig in, pause. Not all ‘ful’ are created equal, and some could land you in hospital. Let’s look the world of Malta’s beloved fava beans and the surprising danger lurking within.

From Farm to Table: The Fava Bean’s Journey

Fava beans, or ‘ful’ in Maltese, have been a staple in Maltese cuisine for centuries. They’re grown locally, with fields of vibrant green plants stretching across the island, particularly in areas like Żebbuġ and Mġarr. After harvest, they’re often sold at markets like Ta’ Qali or even door-to-door by local farmers. But it’s the processing of these beans that can pose a risk.

Many local farmers and processors still use traditional methods, which involve soaking the beans in water to remove their natural toxin, phytohaemagglutinin. However, if not done correctly, this toxin can remain, leading to a condition known as favism. And while most people can eat fava beans without issue, for those with a genetic condition called G6PD deficiency, it can be deadly.

Favism: The Hidden Danger in Fava Beans

Favism is a severe reaction to eating fava beans, characterized by symptoms like anemia, jaundice, and in severe cases, even death. The condition is more common in the Mediterranean, including Malta, due to the prevalence of G6PD deficiency in the region. According to the Malta Association of Haemoglobinopathies, around 1 in 10 Maltese people carry the G6PD gene.

Dr. Joseph Cuschieri, a Maltese hematologist, explains, “Favism is a serious issue in Malta. We see cases every year, often in children, who’ve eaten ‘ful’ without knowing their genetic predisposition.”

Spotting the Danger: Red Kidney Beans vs. Broad Beans

Not all ‘ful’ are created equal. The risk lies primarily in red kidney beans, which are often sold as ‘ful tal-Ħobż’ (bread beans). These beans are smaller, redder, and more toxic than their broader, greener cousins. The latter, known as ‘ful tal-Bajda’ (white beans), are generally safe to eat, even for those with G6PD deficiency.

But here’s the catch: red kidney beans are often mixed with broad beans during processing, making it difficult to tell which is which. And even a small amount of red kidney beans can trigger a severe reaction in those with G6PD deficiency.

What Can You Do?

If you’re a fan of ‘ful’, there are steps you can take to stay safe:

• Know your genetic history. If you or a family member has G6PD deficiency, be extra cautious.
• Ask your farmer or processor about their methods. If they soak the beans in water for at least 48 hours, changing the water frequently, they’re likely safe.
• If you’re unsure, stick to ‘ful tal-Bajda’. They’re generally safer and just as delicious.

And remember, it’s not just about you. If you’re serving ‘ful’, make sure your guests are aware of the risks. A little knowledge can go a long way in keeping Malta’s favorite bean dish on the table and out of the hospital.

As Dr. Cuschieri puts it, “We don’t want to stop people from enjoying ‘ful’. We just want them to be aware of the risks and take simple steps to stay safe.”