In the heart of Mdina, the silent echoes of a once-thriving tradition linger. The aroma of freshly baked biscuits, a staple scent of Malta’s narrow streets for centuries, is now a rare find. The traditional Maltese biscuit shops, our beloved ‘forni’, are disappearing, taking with them a piece of our culinary heritage.

Once upon a time, every town and village had its own forno. These were not just bakeries; they were community hubs, where neighbours gathered to chat, children watched the magic of dough transforming into biscuits, and the aroma wafting from the wood-fired ovens was the town’s perfume. But the industrialisation of baking has changed all that.

Today, the traditional forni are a dying breed. In Mdina, where once there were five, only one remains. In Rabat, the once-bustling Biscuteri Street now echoes with silence. The last bastion of tradition, ‘Il-Forno’ in Mosta, is a beacon of hope amidst the change.

The art of traditional Maltese biscuit making is a labor of love. It’s a craft passed down through generations, from father to son, mother to daughter. The dough is kneaded by hand, the biscuits shaped with care, and the baking a delicate dance with the oven’s heat. But this craftsmanship is fading, replaced by mechanised production lines.

Meet Joseph Xuereb, the 72-year-old baker at ‘Il-Forno’ in Mosta. He’s a living testament to this disappearing craft. “I’ve been doing this since I was 12,” he says, his hands dusted with flour. “It’s not just about making biscuits. It’s about preserving a tradition, a way of life.” But Joseph is one of the last of his kind. His sons have chosen different paths, and the future of ‘Il-Forno’ hangs in the balance.

All is not lost, however. A new generation is stepping up to revive Malta’s biscuit-making tradition. The ‘Forni tal-Maltin’ initiative is teaching the old ways to the young. They’re using social media to spread the word, and their classes are filling up fast.

But it’s not just about learning a skill. It’s about understanding our heritage, about preserving the stories and the flavours that make us who we are. It’s about ensuring that the aroma of freshly baked biscuits continues to fill our streets, and that the silent goodbyes of the past don’t become the only echoes of our culinary history.

So, let’s raise a glass of ‘kinnie’ to the traditional forni. Let’s celebrate their past, support their present, and ensure their future. Because Malta’s biscuit shops are more than just bakeries. They’re a piece of our heart, a slice of our history, and a taste of our soul.